Author Archive

Part One: Are you in the room? No? Then why is the light on?

We all know that we have been guilty of this before.  You leave a room and you forget to hit the light switch, causing energy to be wasted lighting an empty room.  This happens at home and at work.  One of our staff members remembers her father going around the house when she was young, turning off lights saying “do you think I own the power company?”  While there are sometimes security reasons for leaving a light on, most of the time it’s just absentmindedness that causes us to light the room for no one.

The good news is that there is a wonderful way to combat this!  Occupancy sensors have been gaining notoriety in sustainable and energy saving circles in the work place for years, and luckily for us they have also been adapted for home use as well.  A quick look shows 6+ brands that get good reviews from energy-wise sources like TreeHugger, Apartment Therapy Re-Nest and Unplugged, Energy Star, and the EPA (to name a few).  They are: Watt Stopper, Ergolight (a Phillips:Ledalight brand), Lutron, Leviton, Dwyer, and Lightolier (another Phillips brand)…and these are only a few on the market.  Some cater more to the commercial environment than residential, or vice versa, but they all cover both areas in some way.  Some are also more architectural than others (meaning more $$), but most of the time with price you also get better quality.  These six listed range from $26 to $130+ per switch, the higher end being the more architectural and technologically advanced (read: runs on radio waves, so no messy wire installation, but also requires specific coordinating switches).  In general, occupancy sensors run on passive infrared or ultrasonic technology, sending out a pulse that monitors for movement in the room.  Most types can be adjusted for sensitivity levels.  Many brands also provide a dual-tech option, which is a combination of the two.

Either way, if you’ve been thinking about ways to combat “ghost lighting” occupancy sensor switches can be as easy or as in depth of an addition to your workplace/home as you would like to make them.  The installation of occupancy sensors can save 30-60% on the average energy usage related to light; restrooms being the higher end of the spectrum (60%), private offices or rooms in the home on the lower end of the spectrum (38%), and conference rooms, classrooms, and main rooms of the home as the median (50-58%).  While lighting only accounts for 12% of the energy usage in a home, and close to 15% in an office, if the energy bill for the month is $150, that means $18 is lights.  If you save 50%, that’s $9, or $108 on the year.  It is also important to remember that these savings will drastically increase if you convert from old incandescent lights to newer LEDs or compact fluorescents (CFLS).

It is important to know what type of sensor to use for the different spaces.  In table 6.10 of this article from the EPA, you can find a list of the best places to use each of the sensor types.

Part Two: It’s getting sunny! Are you turning off your lights?

As we move into spring and summer, it’s important to realize that there are times of the day where you may not need to flip that light switch.  While certain office environments, or spaces in a home, can lack windows, there are also places that get a lot of sunlight.  Because of this, an add-on that you can choose to do when you are picking your lighting equipment for install or upgrade, is to think about adding a daylight sensor in rooms with good sunlight, or any amount of windows.  As mentioned before, the occupancy sensors notice movement in the room and choose whether the lights should be off or on based on that.  This does you no good, however, if – while people ARE working in the room – the sunlight is providing enough light to work by.  The daylight sensor addition connects into the lighting system and is a photosensor which constantly measures the lumens provided in the room and automatically adjust the artificial light based on its readings.  Dimmed lights (from quality bulbs) draw even less energy than one which is shining at full power.

It is important to realize with light dimming that many lights require a “burn in” time of a certain amount of hours of being on at full power before being switched to a dimmer setting.  Many lights, if put immediately on a dimmer, can fade quicker and lose the ability to shine at full power when needed.

We recently came upon some other articles about Indoor Air Quality.  The first we received as an email from the Maine Indoor Air Quality Council.  The gathering should be a good one for stimulating discusson and change in the area, but the thing that we thought was funniest/most eye-catching was the graphic they used to promote it.

Unfortunately for a lot of homes, this could easily be something that should probably be done, but isn’t.  The conference is the largest in New England about IAQ and will talk about designing/building and maintaining healthy spaces/homes.  Hopefully this discussion will help make that image above only a “funny picture” in the future.

Another article that we came across is from a portion of Apartment Therapy called “Re-Nest”.  They go through the steps of knowing the problem causers, how to remove them or otherwise reduce the exposure, and how to clean in the future to continue to prevent it.  You can find it here.

Sometimes in older homes, or homes where bathroom or kitchen fan placement isn’t well-designed, a backdraft can occur that causes cold or otherwise outside air to come into the house.

We have a client whose master bath fan is on a corner of the house which tends to get a lot of wind.  This means that during those times when the wind is hitting that side of the house, outside air is making its way in through an old fan exhaust duct back into their bathroom.  Most of the time this causes the damper (which obviously isn’t sealing properly) to flap against the edges, creating a rather constant and annoying sound.  This becomes worse in the winter months as the air drops below freezing, causing the bathroom to become very cold – as well as wasting energy for the home’s heat system to try to recover the heat loss.  Needless to say, between the sound and the cold, Mrs. Client is definitely ready for a fix.

There are a couple ways to fix this issue, ranging from the cheaper to more pricey.  The costlier end of things is such because of the overall worth of the replacement/installation of something like an ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator)/HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator).  The difference between the two is that the ERV transfers temperature and humidity, whereas the HRV only transfers temperature.  Your choice between the two will primarily depend on climate – where cold climates will typically have little moisture issues and hot climates typically have major humidity issues.  There are a variety of brands of ERVs/HRVs on the market, each of which tending to have their own twist on the product/installation.  The jist, however, is that in a residential installation the ERV/HRV typically connects to the furnace return air.  This means that the air being vented out from rooms, before being exhausted elsewhere outside, runs through a chamber next to (but not mixed with) fresh intake air.  This chamber itself is called the ERV/HRV.  The proximity allows them to share temperature (hot intake + cooler exhaust = decreased temp of intake and vice versa), tempering the air before being sent to the return air plenum to be adjusted to the final temperature desired for within the house.  This natural tempering reduces the strain, and therefore energy use, required to create the needed air temperature.  Point-source exhausts are still typically required for things such as bathrooms, laundry, etc – but it is possible  with certain systems to exhaust this air through the same method as mentioned above so that the heat from say, a shower, is not lost before exhausted.

This system is not designed to be used as a stand-alone, but as an additive to air-conditioner/furnace.  It is also important to note that the system is not meant to act as a dehumidifier during hot humid months.  A stand-alone dehumidifier will do more for moisture issues in that situation than either an ERV or HRV, though the ERV will do better than the HRV.  In fact, we believe the ERV will typically do better in about every scenario compared to the HRV.

Moving on…

Another option would be to re-route the exhaust exit, making it easier to ensure that the air is actually exhausting and harder for air to come back in.  This is less invasive than the previous option, but will still require some renovation work.  The other, cheaper option, is to merely replace the damper within the ductwork.  We found a damper through Fantech which we are planning to install in the previously mentioned clients’ home.  It works on a spring-load property so that when air pushes from within the home, the damper opens, but then springs back shut after the air pressure is gone.  Because of the spring-style design, it cannot buckle open the opposite direction, cutting off the ability for exterior air to make its way into the home.

We hope this has provided you with some insight into the world of backdrafts.  We promise that your wife will be happy with the lack of noise and your wallet will be happy with the lack of energy loss.

Here’s a piece of additional information on ice dams that we recently came across while looking into the ventilation side of repair/prevention for some clients.  You can view it on the webpage here, and there’s also an option for downloading it in a PDF format if you wish to keep it as a resource.

Check back soon, as we will be looking at the fan backdraft side of ventilation in a home.

This is your last chance to join us for lunch tomorrow!

We are helping host a discussion about “working with your design team” alongside Shannon Alther of TMS Architects and Randy Trainor of CRT Interiors.  We will be talking about strategies for making your home project, whether big or small, run smoothly so that your build/remodel is the rewarding experience that it can and should be.

The Lunch and Learn is being hosted at Greenovations on 599 Lafayette Rd in Portsmouth and will begin at 12pm.  All are welcome.  For further questions about the event, please contact Christopher at Greenovations (603-319-8219).

We hope to see you tomorrow!!

Many buildings in the northern states during the winter get those pesky icicles hanging onto the edges of their roofs.  The thing to be certain of is whether it’s just a cute little singular icicle or a larger localized formation of ice.

smaller icicles

bigger problems

Ice dams can start forming after a heavy snowstorm followed by a couple days of below-freezing temperatures.  They happen when heat either escapes, due to bad insulation, or forms in another way (think electrical box placements, etc) on the underside of the roof.  The warm temperature below the sheathing then melts the layer of snow closest to the roof, causing it to trickle down the roof to the edge.  The problem becomes that when the temperatures are freezing, by the time the liquid water reaches the edge, it becomes solid again in the form of ice.  This process continues until icicles occur, and can lead to what’s called an “ice dam”.

Ice dams are a continuation of the melting/freezing process.  Once a layer of ice has formed on the lower edge of the roof (initially seen as icicles), the water that follows after will freeze on top of, or before, the layer of ice, causing a mound.  This mound continues to grow not only vertically up, but back up the slope of the roof until it reaches the section of the roof that is warm enough to melt the snow.  The ice mound then causes the liquid water to be trapped under the larger layer of snow, but above the roof.  As the melting process continues, both the mound/dam and the reservoir increase in size.  This can be bad both structurally and aesthetically.  The weight of the ice can begin to impact the overhangs and the water can begin to creep back in under the sheathing and get into the house, causing water damage – which can also lead to structural issues, as well as water spots on the ceilings and walls.

heat escape due to lack of insulation

heat caused by electrical use locations

There are a couple ways to fix, or prevent the occurence of ice dams.  The first is to ensure that you have insulated your roof well and properly.  Seal any air leaks between the interior of the home and the attic and add more insulation if the current layer is proving to be inadequate.  Your insulation value depends on location, for northern states it’s R-49 minimum, middle states need at least R-38.  Obviously exceeding the minimum works out better for you.

Another step that you could take, let’s call it the insurance policy, is to put in a ridge vent.  For most northern states, this is a no-brainer.  In some cases the builder is unable to provide enough insulation given the space between the top of ceiling and the bottom of sheathing, so this technique is used.  In most cases, however, it’s just a wise decision.  What happens is that not only are you now providing adequate insulation between your living spaces and the roof, but you’re also venting out any possible warm air that might still occur between the insulation and the bottom of the sheathing.  This step, though, should only be the LAST in the process of fixing/preventing ice dams.  If you try to vent first, before fixing any air leak issues, you could make ice dams worse and increase  your heating bill to boot!

proper insulation with added ventilation

The last thing to do would be to ensure that you are using a layer of rubberized membrane, also known as Ice & Water Shield.  This should not be applied all over the roof, but from the eave up to the spot on the roof that is 3′ higher in overall elevation than the height of the exterior wall.

These things are sometimes tricky to catch, but it is worth it to your home and wallet to investigate before irreparable damage is done.  Happy hunting!

Or: “Why we still believe in Mythic”.

We recently came under some scrutiny for a previous post about paint.  As we are a working firm of a few, dedicated (read: very busy), hard-working people – we like to get information out to our customers and others who might come across our blog in the most concise way possible.  This means that we don’t necessarily delve into the details, or have time to research them.  Now it’s time to lay out what we’ve found in the past few days:

1. Everyone has an interest.  Most people who want to change your mind about something or tell you about a product have an interest in that product doing well.  Like, say, they SELL that product.  When you have an interest you tend to only pay attention to certain facts, or skew them – because how that product does affects your pocketbook.  Now, I say most with italics because, while we love Mythic, we are not in that category.  We get nothing from praising their product, other than the fact that our projects are healthy (for both the people who make them and the people who use them) and require much less touch-ups.  And maybe if we praise them enough, people will catch on to their awesomeness and consider trying them out as well for their next project.

2. MSDS (material safety data sheets), while frequently used as the “bible” of the building world, are actually no such thing – nor were they ever meant to be.  It came about for the manufacturers and people who work with said product, so that they knew how to safely handle it and what they were dealing with.  It was never meant to be an ingredient list, or recipe.  No, it does not tell you what is in the “proprietary” blend or piece of something that might go into every product a company makes…but then you’re getting back to an ingredient list.  And the ingredients of the proprietary blend would be listed if they were deemed hazardous.

3. No company in their right mind is going to give you an ingredient list.  No, that doesn’t mean they’re hiding something.  It just means that, unfortunately, in the world of today – you can’t trust a competitor to get ahold of that and steal your product, merely labeling it differently.  Where the MSDS leaves off is where other stringencies come into play.  Like California prop 65 – where they have to disclose any harmful ingredient known to cause medical issues.  Or where third-party verification is needed.  So you have an un-biased party testing your product to verify that what you’re saying is legitimate.  Guess what…Mythic does that.  They were even taken to court by Valspar in relation to their statements of No VOC, No Carcinogens.  Guess what. They won.

The important factor here is that you, as a consumer, do your research.  Yes, sometimes it can  be daunting, but wouldn’t you rather know the product you’re using is quality and healthy for you?  Too frequently we, as consumers, today take things at face value.  We see that it says “no VOC” on the can, and don’t bother to worry about the colorants or other carcinogens.  We go to the store without thinking about durability and wind up with a paint that reqires 3+ coats, doesn’t cover evenly, and more frequent touch-ups.  We look at a product that has a label that makes it look like it’s green, or like it’s been tested and passed something, when really it’s just something the company’s marketing department made up (this variety of testing/certifications is a whole different elephant in itself).  I know you’re out of school, but the learning doesn’t stop.

A lot of paints these days have jumped on the Low or No-VOC bandwagon.  We thought it important to do a bit of clarification for them that they seem to keep under their zipped lips.

It is true that many paint brands/companies have created a WHITE Low/No VOC paint.  The issue for most of these brands comes in when the customer wants a color.  The tints and colorants mixed into the paint are most commonly not VOC-free.  If you’re going to use a paint found in Lowes, Home Deopt, or other home improvement stores, make sure to ask the paint specialist about the colorants if you are wanting to stick to no VOC.  If you are ok with “Low VOC”, then use the no VOC paint with colorant.  We, however, see it as an all-or-nothing sort of thing – especially if there are paints available in a multitude of colors that have no VOCs.

The prime contenders for the no VOC paints are Benjamin Moore’s Natura and Mythic Paints.  Both have a wide array of color choices that use colorants without VOCs.  Both are also in the same monetary ballpark.  Consumer research and reviews show, however, that the Benjamin Moore paint outperforms the Mythic paint.  While Mythic applied easily, it did not cover permanent marker as well and was not found to be as durable against a variety of washings and cleanings.  It faded over time, though we are unsure what they considered “time” in their study.  BM’s Natura was listed as the top choice by most professionals because of its durability, though their semigloss is also listed as “fading over time”.  We as a company have use Mythic for a variety of projects and have yet to have issues with it.  I guess we will see how its standing a couple years down the road.

The other thing to consider when choosing a paint is not only the VOCs in the materials, but other carcinogens.  While VOCs are getting a lot of flak in the news, it is important to realize that just because something is listed as containing no VOCs, doesn’t mean that it also contains no carcinogens.  From a health standpoint, it is important to check the product’s MSDS (material safety data sheet) for the listing of materials and hazards.  Mythic’s paint, for instance, lists no hazardous materials.  Benjamin Moore’s Natura, however, lists three different hazardous chemicals (click on the Natura series for their PDFs), one of which being titanium oxide which was recently listed as a possible human carcinogen.  Kaolin can also contain amounts of crystalline silica, a group one carcinogen.

These hazardous materials make up less than 40% of the BM paint, so it’s up to the consumer whether they choose durability over health, or vice versa.  It seems understandable to us that a product such as Mythic’s which is so healthy and water-based would more easily break down over time.  For it to then be classified as #2 in the testing, behind BM’s Natura, makes it number one in our books.

*There are cheaper low/no VOC paints on the market for those looking for a budget renovation, like Olympic’s Premium or Home Depot’s Freshaire, but they also test poorly in application and durability – which means you could end up reapplying or touching up more frequently than the premium brands.

We would like to welcome you to join us in a Lunch and Learn on February 9th in Portsmouth.  We are helping host a discussion about “working with your design team” alongside Shannon Alther of TMS Architects and Randy Trainor of CRT Interiors.  We will be talking about strategies for making your home project, whether big or small, run smoothly so that your build/remodel is the rewarding experience that it can and should be.

The Lunch and Learn is being hosted at Greenovations on 599 Lafayette Rd in Portsmouth and will begin at 12pm.  All are welcome, but please RSVP by Feb 7th.  For further questions about the event, please contact Christopher at Greenovations (603-319-8219).  We hope to see you there!

(or: Why it’s worth updating your plumbing fixtures)

We’ve recently been doing some research as  a part of a commercial retrofit that involves removing bathroom fixtures to update the bathroom materials and talked the owners into upgrading the fixtures in the process.  We always knew that the newer, more efficient toilets and faucets were “better”, but didn’t realize HOW MUCH better they were – both for the environment and your pocket!

We looked into what the water/sewer costs are for the area and the usage factors for the location and the national averages for bathroom usage.  We then took those usage parameters and plugged them in to calculations for both the current model and the replacement options.  Because this is a commercial outfit, the usage is obviously higher (and therefore more of a payback) than if installed in a home. (That still, however, doesn’t make it a bad choice to update to efficient fixtures in your home. You WILL save resources, both natural and economic.)

In our scenario:

• The current toilet usage equates to just above $11,000 in water use per year, based on a usage factor of 2* flushes per day for both men and women, at a rate of 350 people per day.  If replaced with a dual-flush 1.28/1.6 gpf toilet, the cost savings over the initial year (including fixture purchase) is almost $3,000.  Over 5 years, this cost savings is over $27,000.
• The current urinal usage equates to just under $5,000 in water use per year, based on a usage factor of 3 flushes per day for 200 men.  If replaced with a waterless urinal, the cost savings over the initial year (including fixture purchase and sealant replacement cost) is just over $3,500.  Over 5 years, this cost savings is over $22,200.
• The current faucet usage equates to just over $2,600 in water use per year, based on a usage factor of 3 uses per day per person at a rate of 15 seconds per use.  If replaced with an updated 5.gpm touchless faucet with basin, the cost savings over the initial year (including fixture purchase) is minimal.  Over 5 years, however, this cost savings is almost $7,000.
• The current hand dryer usage equates to just under $14,500 in paper usage per year, based on a usage factor of 3 pieces per person per hand-washing.  If replaced with a Dyson Airblade, the cost savings over the initial year (including the fixture purchase is over$9,000.  Over 5 years, this cost savings is over $65,000.

THESE COST SAVINGS TOTAL OVER $15,000 IN THE FIRST YEAR AND ALMOST $121,500 OVER THE FIRST 5 YEARS! In our case this 5 year savings pays for the entire commercial retrofit.

Over the 1 year usage, the installation of more water efficient fixtures saved 855,925 gallons of water.  This is enough for 37, 520 people to drink 8 glasses of water per day for a year.  In our changing times, this reduction could save someone’s life in the future.

We were amazed most, however, about the hand dryers.  We knew that the decreased water usage would obviously save money.  What we didn’t realize was the insane usage cost of the paper towel dispensers.  It’s usage cost in one year is over $14,000!  The initial cost of the Airblade is $1,200 (and we budgeted purchasing 4), so we expected it to be hard for the efficiency to overcome that initial cost, but it blew it away.  The Dyson website itself says that the cost of one paper towel equates to 22 people drying their hands using the Airblade.  Amazing.

This research proved to us that, no matter the instance, it is worth taking the steps to be more energy efficient.

*all usage calculations are based on national averages.