Green Building Tips

Or: What else you could be doing with it

Bill Bryson’s latest work At Home has a good section in chapter 12 “The garden” about lawns and how they came about, and I feel it is worthy of a bit of back-story for this blog.

Pre-19th century lawns were for estates and institutions (read: lots of $$$$).  People either scythed and gathered the grass nonstop or paid for a shepherd to manage sheep that would eat the grass.  Either way it didn’t look great and cost a lot.  Then, in 1830, a one Edwin Budding created an early version of the lawnmower.  A behemoth of a contraption made out of cast iron that…needless to say, didn’t go far.  A couple different people and side inventions later (namely a drive train on a bicycle and steel), a more lightweight, easy-to-use version was created and the phenomenon stuck.  By 1875 the lawnmower was a mainstay in the household appliances and well-cut lawns were the sought after look.  It became the “in” thing to have a manicured lawn because it showed you had so much money that you could frivolously use your land for looks instead of food.

“Today for many people gardening is about lawns and almost nothing else.  In the United States lawns cover more surface area – 50,000 square miles – than any single farm crop.  Grass on domestic lawns wants to do what wild grasses do in nature – namely, grow to a height of about two feet, flower, turn brown and die.  To keep it short and green and continuously growing means manipulating it fairly brutally and pouring a lot of stuff on to it.  In the western United States about 60 per cent of all the water that comes out of taps for all purposes is sprinkled on lawns.  Worse still are the amounts of herbicides and pesticides – 70 million pounds of it a year – that are soaked into lawns.  It is a deeply ironic fact that for most of us keeping a handsome lawn is about the least green thing we do.” (my italics)

Man, I don’t know about you, but that makes me feel HORRIBLE.  So, this post is dedicated to the OTHER things you can do with your “lawn”:

1. The obvious choice is gardening.  The idea of victory gardens, started in WWII, is coming back in a big way.  People are become more aware of where things come from and the pesticides an trucking involved in getting fresh veggies.  And, let’s face it – they’re tired of maintaining something (a lawn) that doesn’t provide anything for them in return…besides more maintenance.  Obviously depending on where you live, the types of things you can grow vary based on temperature and sun, but most places can grow herbs and tomatos or peppers at minimum.  If you have a good new england summer you can get in one rotation of corn if you plant by the end of may at the latest.  Just think…all you have to do is walk outside to grab the veggies, fruits, and seasonings for dinner!  This obviously brings up an issue of animals, as new england is not lacking in them.  The New England Wildflower Society has a few tips on “bambi-proofing” your garden that can be found here.  Treehugger also has a slideshow of beautiful and edible plants that go beyond the average veggie and fruit.
2. Native species.  Getting into specific types of grass species gets far outside the boundaries of our training and background, but suffice it to say that native is better.  Many people have been working fervently on re-introducing native grasses after so many years of bringing things over from other countries (think Bermuda grass, though ironically not originally from Bermuda either) with bad results.  Buffalo grass and sheep’s fescue are two of the more hearty native species, although there are many being created as mixes of native varieties.  The NEWFS also has a good blurb on the sustainable background of native species.
3. Wildflowers.  What woman doesn’t love coming home to flowers every day?  Well, maybe not all women, but it certainly beats coming home to have to mow the lawn!  Intermixing with native species, or completely re-seeding with wildflowers is becoming  a popular choice.  There are a variety of places that make wildflower seed mixes, as well and wildflower/grass mixes for the new england climate: New England Wetland Plants, New England Wild Flower Society, and New England Natural.
4. Drought resistant. Ironically most native species, like the buffalo grass and fescues, are drought resistant.  Think about it. Before we got here and decided we wanted to give the grass a hair cut and water it religiously…it was all on its own.  And the native species that we know about and still have available – are still available for that reason.  They thrived ON THEIR OWN.  The USDA is currently looking into creating hybrids that are more drought-resistant, so keep an eye on that for future re-seedings.

So there you have it.  Four different things you could do with your lawn area besides mow and water it every week.  Let us know: what are you going to do with that extra time/money/water?

Summer growing season is amping up in most of the country, and hitting the peak in the northeast.  As many people move to growing their own fruits and veggies, they also need water to help them along.

Good news.  Making your own rain barrel is as easy as you think.  First you need to find a barrel sizeable enough to meet your watering needs.  We recommend around 50gal; more if your garden is more than 10 plants (incl flowers).  These can be found at food vendors (think pickles) or other commercial entities.  Just make sure that they didn’t once hold something harmful to you or your plants.

You should also purchase a brass spigot with hose hook up, a secondary double sided hose hook-up, a hose (if you don’t already have one), and a durable screen.  You’ll also need a (power) drill and drill piece that is just smaller than the diameter of the spigot.

First step is to edit the outside of the barrel (if you care what it looks like). First construction step is to flip the barrel upside down and drill a hole – as straight as possible – into the side about 9-12″ up.  Then screw in the spigot, sealing it with some waterproof glue or caulk. Some people use washers between the barrel and spigot, but you don’t have to.  You should also drill a hole about 6″ from the top and attach the plain hose hook-up here.  This is where your hose should be hooked to when not using it, as it provides a release for water before creating overflow issues.  With the hose attachment you can also ensure that the water goes where you want it to.

Flip the barrel back over right side up  and drill any number of holes in the top. You can do one big one or a bunch of little ones using the same drill bit.  If you make a variety of little ones, just be sure to make enough to account for normal downfall in your area.

Tip the barrel back over to get the shavings out. When it is placed right side up again, lay the screen over the barrel mouth and then screw the lid back onto the barrel, securing the screen.

Your barrel is now ready for use!  If you are feeding it under a gutter, you may have to cut some of the vertical length out if you want it to directly flow into the barrel.  You can then re-attach the bottom L piece so that it sends it onto the barrel top.  If you live in a New England home without gutters, then watch your home during a rain and see where the most water comes down.  You’ll also want to consider where this water will be used the most.  You can then place your barrel here, just keep in mind that it will not fill as quickly as those with gutters (but it will also have less drain-screen issues).

Enjoy your new source of water!  Be sure to check the screen after heavy rains to make sure no new leaves are blocking water access into the barrel.

Permeable paving units are another option when trying to provide solid surfaces for vehicle or pedestrian traffic, while also managing stormwater issues onsite without having to create swales or retention ponds.

Hastings Concrete checker block gives you the stability of concrete and the porosity of grass combined.  The concrete design has a steel reinforcing that provides the capability of the surface to hold cars up to and including fire trucks.  Each 4sf piece also gives a surface area of 75% grass.

Hanover Architectural Products makes a variety of permeable paving units, from porous blocks to open paver grids.  They currently offer four options: Aqua-Loc, EcoGrid, and two options for a 4×9 paving brick.  The Aqua-Loc paver itself is not porous, but provides over 10% open space on installation, making it capable of filtering 7-8″ of rain per hour.  It can also be installed mechanically to save time and money, as well as be used for moderate vehicle traffic and almost all versions of pedestrian traffic.  The two 4×9 paving options provide less open space (about 7%) but give more solidarity to the ground structure and meet ADA standards.  The EcoGrid paver is the most permeable option Hanover provides, at an open space rate of 39%.  The paver still provides the ability for moderate vehicular traffic while allowing water to filter through the grass-filled voids.

Pavestone Grasstone also has an open paver system similar to EcoGrid and the checker block that allows for vehicle traffic while providing space for stormwater filtration.

There are obviously a variety of pavers that work well for installations wishing for grass, these being only the tip of the iceberg.  The important thing to look for, if choosing this type of paver, is the structural capabilities of the paver and requirements needed for the project.

While porous concrete and asphalt are quite similar in their effectiveness and how they work, there are enough differences in their makeup that it is worth discussing them separately.  We covered the concrete version last week and today we will cover porous asphalt.

As mentioned, porous asphalt works similarly to porous concrete.  Both are based on a void structure like a rice krispie and require subbase layers that were mentioned in the concrete post.  The main difference comes in the physical act of making and laying the porous layer.  The asphalt mixture is harder to create than the concrete version, but is easier to install.  While we couldn’t find any specifics on why, it is more than likely due to the petroleum-based binder that is used in asphalt mixtures, so it is important to choose a binder mix that is appropriate for your climate.  This petroleum binder will also become tacky during summer heat, swelling and making the voids smaller.  It will also provide less aid in preventing heat island effect compared to its concrete counterpart due to its darker color trapping more heat, but this also means it will speed the melting process in winter months when the heat is needed.  The concrete version, however, requires less nighttime lighting because its color reflects more light naturally.

Maintenance for pervious asphalt is very similar to that of the concrete version, requiring an annual or bi-annual cleaning.  During winter months it will also need to be maintained with plowing and salting (no sand!).  It is important to note that for both the porous asphalt and concrete, studies have been done to show that only 25% of the salt needed for normal pavements is required for porous ones.  It is also worth knowing that if 99% clogging were to happen (rare with regular maintenance), water would still pass through at a rate of 10 inches/hour, still more efficient that most sands and soils.

While pervious concrete was first used over 100 years ago, it has taken until recent years for it’s application to become more commercially mainstream.  Thanks to the sustainable trend in building practices, and organizations like the EPA and USGBC*, it is becoming a more widely used material.

Pervious concrete is made of aggregate and a paste of cementitious materials and a specific amount of water.  There is little to no sand found in pervious concrete because it inhibits the ability for the paste to leave voids. Think of it like a rice krispie treat.  The paste is the marshmallow filling that attaches to the aggregate (rice) while not filling in the holes between.

Typical flow rates for pervious concrete are 480 inches per hour or 5gallons/square foot/min.  This means it is both more economically and more environmentally smart than regular concretes because it allows stormwater to filter through its layer back into the soil, recharging groundwater levels immediately.  The open pore system also greatly reduces heat island effect caused by impervious concrete.

The economics side of this means that because of this immediate filter and removal it drastically reduces – if not entirely mitigates – the need for retention ponds, swales, or other stormwater management systems.  This not only lowers the overall cost of the project, but lets you use the land which would have been swales more efficiently for building use – something which becomes very economically obvious if swales are replaced by rentable offices or apartments.  It could also remove any stormwater impact fees that government agencies are starting to implement from the project costs.

Pervious concretes are typically seen as parking lots or other pavements, sidewalks and paths, and residential roads/alleys/driveways.  Increased study of its composition in recent years, however, has seen it also implemented as tennis courts, foundations for greenhouses/hatcheries, patios, low water crossings, slope stabilizations, zoo floors, artificial reefs, swimming pool decks, seawalls, and noise barriers (it has very good acoustic properties).  Places in Europe have even used it for load-bearing walls.

Because of the makeup and the faster drying time, the entire process is done on-site, which means the ingredients can (and should) come from a local source, helping the local economy.  This also makes it more easily adaptable to different regions.

Due to the fact that its main uses are still for locations where there will be interactions with cars, questions about what happens to oil and other liquids arise.  Because of the way the pervious pavement forms, however, instead of pooling the liquids, it acts as a filtering device.  The oil which might leak from a car is filtered through the voids in the surface.  It does not merely run through like water, but attaches itself as a layer on top of the hardened edges of the void.  Natural bacteria and fungi then break down the oil.  Studies have shown that up to 99% of oil introduced in this way will be biodegraded.

While pervious concrete is not typically used for high traffic locations, like main roads or places where heavy semis will maneuver, the normal composite used can safely hold 3000psi – the weight of a fire truck.  Special mixes can be made that allow it to hold more, and the introduction of subgrade aggregate also increases its strength.

The rice krispie treat look also aids vehicle traction, especially during inclement weather.  The porosity ensures the filtration which also eliminates spraying and pooling of water.  Because of its more rugged surface, however, it is important to know that it shouldn’t be used where highly abrasive machinery will be used – like a snow plow that digs all the way down to concrete surface.

In general, a smaller amount of shrinkage during drying occurs and the minimal cracks that might occur have no effect on the structural integrity of the concrete.  In colder climates, the implementation must be designed so that the voids would not ever become fully saturated.  This is typically achieved by putting in 8-24″ of sublayer rock.

Pervious concrete can last 20-40 years with little to no maintenance, compared to other concretes or asphalts which continuously need resurfaced.  The main source of maintenance is the prevention of clogging the voids through annual vacuuming and/or pressure washing.

*The use of pervious concrete is listed as a “Best Management Practices” by the EPA and will help achieve LEED credits SS-C6.1, 6.2; SS-C7.1; WE-C1.1; MR-C4.2, 4.2; and MR-C5.1, 5.2.

Part One: Are you in the room? No? Then why is the light on?

We all know that we have been guilty of this before.  You leave a room and you forget to hit the light switch, causing energy to be wasted lighting an empty room.  This happens at home and at work.  One of our staff members remembers her father going around the house when she was young, turning off lights saying “do you think I own the power company?”  While there are sometimes security reasons for leaving a light on, most of the time it’s just absentmindedness that causes us to light the room for no one.

The good news is that there is a wonderful way to combat this!  Occupancy sensors have been gaining notoriety in sustainable and energy saving circles in the work place for years, and luckily for us they have also been adapted for home use as well.  A quick look shows 6+ brands that get good reviews from energy-wise sources like TreeHugger, Apartment Therapy Re-Nest and Unplugged, Energy Star, and the EPA (to name a few).  They are: Watt Stopper, Ergolight (a Phillips:Ledalight brand), Lutron, Leviton, Dwyer, and Lightolier (another Phillips brand)…and these are only a few on the market.  Some cater more to the commercial environment than residential, or vice versa, but they all cover both areas in some way.  Some are also more architectural than others (meaning more $$), but most of the time with price you also get better quality.  These six listed range from $26 to $130+ per switch, the higher end being the more architectural and technologically advanced (read: runs on radio waves, so no messy wire installation, but also requires specific coordinating switches).  In general, occupancy sensors run on passive infrared or ultrasonic technology, sending out a pulse that monitors for movement in the room.  Most types can be adjusted for sensitivity levels.  Many brands also provide a dual-tech option, which is a combination of the two.

Either way, if you’ve been thinking about ways to combat “ghost lighting” occupancy sensor switches can be as easy or as in depth of an addition to your workplace/home as you would like to make them.  The installation of occupancy sensors can save 30-60% on the average energy usage related to light; restrooms being the higher end of the spectrum (60%), private offices or rooms in the home on the lower end of the spectrum (38%), and conference rooms, classrooms, and main rooms of the home as the median (50-58%).  While lighting only accounts for 12% of the energy usage in a home, and close to 15% in an office, if the energy bill for the month is $150, that means $18 is lights.  If you save 50%, that’s $9, or $108 on the year.  It is also important to remember that these savings will drastically increase if you convert from old incandescent lights to newer LEDs or compact fluorescents (CFLS).

It is important to know what type of sensor to use for the different spaces.  In table 6.10 of this article from the EPA, you can find a list of the best places to use each of the sensor types.

Part Two: It’s getting sunny! Are you turning off your lights?

As we move into spring and summer, it’s important to realize that there are times of the day where you may not need to flip that light switch.  While certain office environments, or spaces in a home, can lack windows, there are also places that get a lot of sunlight.  Because of this, an add-on that you can choose to do when you are picking your lighting equipment for install or upgrade, is to think about adding a daylight sensor in rooms with good sunlight, or any amount of windows.  As mentioned before, the occupancy sensors notice movement in the room and choose whether the lights should be off or on based on that.  This does you no good, however, if – while people ARE working in the room – the sunlight is providing enough light to work by.  The daylight sensor addition connects into the lighting system and is a photosensor which constantly measures the lumens provided in the room and automatically adjust the artificial light based on its readings.  Dimmed lights (from quality bulbs) draw even less energy than one which is shining at full power.

It is important to realize with light dimming that many lights require a “burn in” time of a certain amount of hours of being on at full power before being switched to a dimmer setting.  Many lights, if put immediately on a dimmer, can fade quicker and lose the ability to shine at full power when needed.

This is your last chance to join us for lunch tomorrow!

We are helping host a discussion about “working with your design team” alongside Shannon Alther of TMS Architects and Randy Trainor of CRT Interiors.  We will be talking about strategies for making your home project, whether big or small, run smoothly so that your build/remodel is the rewarding experience that it can and should be.

The Lunch and Learn is being hosted at Greenovations on 599 Lafayette Rd in Portsmouth and will begin at 12pm.  All are welcome.  For further questions about the event, please contact Christopher at Greenovations (603-319-8219).

We hope to see you tomorrow!!

We would like to welcome you to join us in a Lunch and Learn on February 9th in Portsmouth.  We are helping host a discussion about “working with your design team” alongside Shannon Alther of TMS Architects and Randy Trainor of CRT Interiors.  We will be talking about strategies for making your home project, whether big or small, run smoothly so that your build/remodel is the rewarding experience that it can and should be.

The Lunch and Learn is being hosted at Greenovations on 599 Lafayette Rd in Portsmouth and will begin at 12pm.  All are welcome, but please RSVP by Feb 7th.  For further questions about the event, please contact Christopher at Greenovations (603-319-8219).  We hope to see you there!

It’s getting colder outside!!  We’ve also seen our first – and umpteenth – christmas ad already, so we thought it relatable to talk about Christmas lights as you start bringing down the decoration boxes from the attic.

Obviously the main thought with Christmas lights is energy draw and therefore money out of pocket.  Or at least that is the thought with most people, with those trying to replicate National Lampoons Christmas Vacation being the exception to the rule.  This means no more of the old, big-bulbed lights from the 80’s and 90’s.  LED lights are moving up as one of the better solutions, with their lights using less electricity and lasting longer than traditional bulbs (longer lasting means less in the landfill!!).  They also stay cool to the touch, which means if you string them around a tree or near curtains, you don’t have to worry about a fire like you would with old light types.  Keep in mind, though, that even when they’re off, they can still draw a ghost load like other plugged-in fixtures and appliances!

Per the DOE, 50-70% of energy use in homes goes towards heating or cooling of some sort.  Most people, when thinking about the heating losses of their homes quickly look to the insulation of their walls (which is good), but forget another easy place where heat can evaporate.  Water pipes!

If you cannot insulate all of the hot water piping that is visible, be sure to focus your efforts on a 3′ diameter of piping around the hot water heater.  Be sure to use a quality insulation wrap and make sure the fit is snug.  If you have a gas hot water heater, leave at least 6″ of space around the flue before applying insulation.  By insulating all visible portions of hot water pipes, a homeowner can rest easy knowing that they are saving energy, and therefore money, as well as helping their hot water heater work more efficiently.